Skiing in Sappada

We went skiing in Sappada over the weekend.  Sappada is a cute little ski town in the Dolomites about 2 hours from us.  We always stay at the Hotel Haus Michaela.  The owner is so kind and helpful and the kids love her.  She  always gives them a bag of candy when we check-out and will customize their gelato order.  That is service!

This was last year’s ski trip.  They’ve grown a lot!

Sappada has a perfect ski hill for kids.  I’m not sure if Clara will ever really take to it, but Benjamin is really flying now.  Wish I had pictures of him in action.

We also enjoyed Nevelandia – which translates to snow land.  It’s just a big snowy play land.  They have bounce houses, an ice skating rink, sledding and tubing, trampolines, and a lot of room for snow angels.  I wish I had taken more pictures, but picture taking with cold weather gear on is no small feat!

Finally a legit snow angel!


I went to look for Clara at one point and found her in this little cave.


We were lucky and got about 4 inches of fresh snow the night we got there.


I love the little alpine huts!


This was Clara’s favorite ride ever!  I think she went around in this tube for 45 minutes. I thought she was going to sleep!



We even got to play in a real igloo!


We picked up this hand carved wooden mask at a local shop.  These masks are used for Carnevale and are typical of this area.


I love this mask! The carver had even burned his name and date into the interior.


We just happened to be in Sappada for Carnevale last year.  This is the full costume and a sample of more typical wooden masks.




Back to Bled: Glamping at Garden Village

Glamping seems to be an upcoming trend.  I had read about this glamping resort Garden Village in Lake Bled and had to give it a try.  This is definitely camping done right!

We were welcomed with a local Slovenian aperitif while the kids explored the pool and playground.



The pool was “living” meaning instead of cleansing the water with chemicals they plant a certain variety of plants for a natural filter.  It seemed like a good idea, but attracted a lot of ducks. I guess that’s when you pretend to be in a lake and get over it! We only got to enjoy an actual swim one time because of the rain.


Garden Village offers several accomodations — we wanted the tree house, but they were booked so glamping tent it was!  It ended up being a good trade off because only the glamping tent comes with a  private wooden hot tub!


Our secluded table overlooking the stream was most perfect for enjoying coffee each morning. (In full disclosure we didn’t actually do this…it’s just what I had envisioned upon seeing the setup.)


Our tent had full plumbing (some tents on the property use shared bathrooms) including an outdoor shower which I loved — especially while hearing the pitter-patter of a nice and  warm summer rain.


The tent was surrounded with its own private yard and gardens all throughout the resort.  Guests are free to pick and enjoy anything they find.  Strawberries, apples, raspberries, and blueberries were our favorites! 20160702-_DSC261820160702-_DSC2619IMG_5472IMG_5477


The raised bed above the trough was full of fruit and vegetables.  We could watch the kitchen hands wandering around the grounds picking herbs for tonights dinner.


This little creek was just outside of our tent.  Perfect trickle of water for sleeping.  I didn’t need earplugs or a sound machine!


Now for the star of the show…the wooden tub! We enjoyed a few bottles glasses of sparkling wine over the weekend in this!  I could’ve used a little more heat, but the temperature was perfect for the kids.  We spent more time at the resort than normal because the weather was so iffy — rained on and off the entire time.  The private wooden tub was the perfect remedy!



These are the smaller tents perched over the larger river.  They allow people to fish in the river and I’ve read they are happy to throw your catch on the fire for dinner!


The restaurant Vrtnarija is worth visit even if you don’t stay there.  Everything is seasonal, locally sourced, and mostly grown on the property — it was delicious!  You could taste freshness in every bite.  The tables had grass planted right into them! It came in handy…when one of the kids spilled their juice it soaked right into the grass without creating a scene!  What a win-win!


A small stream ran right through the restaurant and was also filled with fresh grown herbs and produce.  The walls and most of the ceiling were all window which created a wonderful outdoor ambiance.



The kermna rezina, the cream cake of Bled, is made of delicate layers of pasty with vanilla cream and custard on top.  Delicious, but I still feel I’m missing out on the original.  This was the restaurants variation.  According to what I’ve read, the cake must be sampled from creator —  the Park Hotel.  Guess I still have an excuse to go back…


Beyond our glamping site, we checked out some of the surrounding area.  We checked out the castle towering over Lake Bled.  The castle is beautiful, but was somewhat unimpressive at the top.  It consisted of trinket shops and had beautiful views hard that were a bit difficult to  enjoy in the pouring rain. 20160703-DSC0152920160703-DSC0153420160703-DSC01535

We stopped at the sleepy  village of Radovljica.

20160703-DSC0153620160703-DSC0153720160703-DSC01538We got some lunch and visited a gingerbread house museum in the basement.  Derek ordered some kind of dumpling and any time goulash is on the menu it is a definite “yes, please!” for me.



On the way home we stopped at a beautiful park/garden.  I can imagine how lovely it is on the weekends.  I was surprised it was so empty, but we were there on a weekday.  I would’ve gotten more pictures, but it seems like tension was high that day and none of us were in the mood.










Predjama Castle – The Castle in a Cave

We visited the unconquerable Predjama Castle built within the mouth of a cave in Slovenia. It has been my favorite castle by far — mysterious, fascinating to explore, and has an incredible story behind it.

The castle belonged to the renowned robber baron Knight Erazam of Predjama (Robin Hood of Slovenia).  According to the legend, he sought refuge here after fleeing the Holy Roman Emperor, Fredrick III.  He then found an ally with the Hungarians during the Hungarian and Austrian war.  He hid in the castle for over a year while under siege, mocking the enemy (Austrians) with fresh cherries — they were bewildered about how he was obtaining food and supplies.  Turns out, the hidden passageways within the cave castle allowed him to smuggle in supplies without the enemy knowing.  In the end, he was betrayed by a servant and was blasted by a cannonball while sitting on the toilet!


Underneath the castle is a network of cave passages over 14 km in length.  This is one of the tunnels leading out of the cave.


It was often hard to tell when the castle walls would end and cave would begin. Many of the walls inside were solid rock.



These were not easy stairs to climb, but led to a rooftop terrace and beautiful view of the valley.  The grassy area is a tournament field where the knights used to compete.  Every July the castle holds a reenactment of the medieval tournament.  I would love to go back!



I really loved how the museum displayed how the rooms were actually used.  Most castles are simply rooms with artifacts and lovely grounds to explore. (Interior photos by  The dungeon was a little graphic for the kids, but Benny LOVES a good dungeon.



I was so glad we made this stop! It was definitely a highlight and totally worth seeing.  I was not surprised to learn it’s been featured on ghost hunting shows and has been investigated by the Discovery Channel for “unexplained events”.



Our First Visitor!

My brother Adam, an amazingly talented artist,  came our way for a quick visit before he soaked in all of the art history Italy has to offer.  We met in Venice for the day.  He took in the museums and I wandered the alleys with the kids.


If you want to experience one of the most miserable experiences of your life, take the big water bus.  Otherwise, the water taxi is totally worth the splurge.  Venice is one of those cities where you will blow through money faster than you could ever imagine.  I think it is best to mentally prepare yourself and enjoy your time.


We were so lucky to have beautiful weather all weekend because it had been raining buckets for months!


While wandering through Venice with the kids, we looked at the fish, chased bubbles, enjoyed gelato, and watched the gondolas row by.


I think every kid in Venice logged time with the bubbles.  These guys must make a killing.


We all dined at this lovely spot right outside of the hotel for dinner.  The hotel was wasn’t fancy by any means, but with a five minute walk to Piazza San Marco, the location couldn’t be beat.


Our hotel

I left Venice with the kids as soon as possible as it is not a bit child friendly.  The crowds are insane, it’s just too much walking, and a bathroom is impossible to find!  My brother enjoyed another day getting lost in the alleys.

The next day, we showed him around Maniago, Lago di Barcis, and drove through the Dolomites.


We enjoyed a coffee while the kids played at the playground.  Sister will always find a place to relax.



Piazza Italia in Maniago

The last day of his visit we took  a day trip to Piran, Slovenia. Slovenia’s coastline only stretches 27 miles. Piran is located at the very tip of a narrow peninsula.  It’s old town is one of the best preserved historical towns anywhere on the Adriatic.   20160508-_DSC244020160508-_DSC2444


Tartini Square named after the violinist Giuseppe Tartini

We enjoyed lunch and a good bottle of local Slovenian wine in the square.


The kids had time to run around the square.


We strolled through the old winding alleyways.


We climbed the bell tower for spectacular views of the city and Tartini Square.  From up here we could hear a choir practicing on one of the balconies down below.  We never did figure out where the sound was coming from, but listening was treat!


Hello down there!


Laskos under the sun at this seaside cafe — does life get any better?!?



Looks so inviting!


We capped off our time in Piran with a gelato stop.  Benny was served his first ice cream cone.  He felt like such a hot shot.


Looks like we missed another day of rain in Maniago and came home to a  beautiful rainbow.  We had a good visit with my brother and now he’s off to explore Italy’s endless treasures.







Andalusia, Spain: Granada

We’re off to Andalusia! It doesn’t seem too far from Italy, but with a fairly long layover in Madrid, it was a full day of travel.  Luckily, the Madrid airport had a few playgrounds to ease the waiting time.  Why aren’t these more common in the states?

The lobby of our hotel had ancient ruins on display.  The kids enjoyed imagining what this would’ve been.  Benny decided it was a good lion cage.

Granada was quite vibrant and bustling with an exotic feel.  I loved the spice markets on the streets!


We stopped for an aperitivo to get our bearings and unwind a little. The cafe came with a view of the cathedral, flamenco dancers performing on the corner, and the sound of a spanish guitar across the street.

No European Square would be complete without a carousel ride!


I was worried about going to Spain since I’ve heard they eat so late at night (even later than Italians), but the tapas bars were open so we always had options.  Our server recommended this tower.   Everyone in the restaurant seemed awestruck as it was served to us.  The French people at the next table asked to sample it. That was a first!  We couldn’t figure out what it was and finally concluded it was squash battered and fried with a molasses based glaze.  It was good, but I think we were all expecting french fries?


Derek couldn’t wait to sample the famous Jamon Iberico or Iberian ham.


Apparently we were early risers by Spanish standards.  Somehow, all four of us managed to get ourselves ready, eat breakfast, and STILL take to the streets before anyone!  That’s an accomplishment! We killed time by chasing pigeons…


Strolling through tiny sleepy alleys…


And best of all… getting Clara decked out in a flamenco dress! I don’t think the shop was technically open, but she was nice to let us come in.   And yes, I was secretly wishing I was the one trying on dresses!  They were all so colorful and exotic!


The cathedral of Granada is magnificent!  Mostly done in Spanish Renaissance style, its design is based on the triumphal arch and it is built over the site of an ancient mosque.


I love how Benny truly seems amazed by these incredible structures. The interior was spectacular!




The plaza outside of the cathedral was full of gypsies pushing bunches of rosemary.  I had encountered a particularly pesky lady who simply wouldn’t take no for an answer.  While my  hands were occupied carrying Clara, she attempted to stuff the rosemary into my purse while screaming “regalo, regalo”(gift)!  Fortunately, I had a purse that zipped and managed to escape without a forced palm reading and a 20 euro loss.

We grabbed lunch at what is supposed to be one of the oldest restaurants in Granada.   This tapas dish had eggs, spicy sausage, potatoes,  and some other kind of meat.  It wasn’t my favorite, but Derek seemed to enjoy it.


A cheese plate is always a good idea

It was time to do something for the kids so we ventured out to the Science Park – Museum for Children.

They did some drivers ed …













Worked on a ball track …


Studied a giant globe  (actually, Derek and I were the ones fascinated with the globe)…


And constructed and tested a boat made of corks …


We had to leave the science museum as we couldn’t be late for the main attraction of Granada:  Alhambra! Tickets are hard to get and they sell out fast.  In fact, I had dropped the ball and didn’t order tickets in time, but a tip from Rick Steves saved the day!  In that situation, he suggests purchasing a Granada Card which includes a visit to Alhambra.  It worked out beautifully.

We had a delightful stroll through the gardens. The gentle sound of water trickled throughout garden’s water features,  Clara was sound asleep on my back, the sun was shining; it was tranquil and beautiful! 20160408-DSC00886

I loved the intricate designs of the walkways and the beautiful flowers.


Now for the main attraction: Nasrid Palace! Nasrid Palace is very restricted and each entrance ticket is assigned a visitation time.  We dutifully arrived about 15 minutes early and were one of the first in line for our time.  Naturally, a few minutes prior to the doors opening, we hear Benjamin shout “I need to go potty”! We were stuck.  Had we gone to  find the potty, we would’ve missed our time slot.

So, we then did the great sprint through the Nasrid Palace (our entire reason for stopping in Granada)! We were basically elbowing and pushing our way through throngs of people.  It was a giant maze that never seemed to end! I managed to snap a few photos with my phone as we plowed through the crowd.

Clearly these pictures don’t do it justice, but the detail is absolutely stunning! I wish we could’ve taken our time and learned something about it, but… alas, it was a great parenting failure and it served us right for not thinking about it.  It took us a moment to recover from the shock of missing the very thing we came to see.

Carrying on, we explored the last of the grounds. We climbed a steep, twisty, narrow, crowded staircase to the top of  bell tower plaza.  My legs almost gave out on me with Clara on my back.  I’m fairly certain I was climbing with all fours at one point!  There was wonderful view of the Albayzin Moorish quarter at the top.  I wish we would’ve had time to visit this area…oh well, we definitely have good reason to return! 20160408-DSC0095020160408-DSC00951

We finished the evening with dinner in a touristy plaza where the servers tried to swindle us and we were constantly interrupted by pesky salesman.  They didn’t bring us our glass of wine, charged us for it and also seven coffees we hadn’t ordered!  We learned a good lesson — always study the bill!

Moving on to the next Andalusian stop:  Marbella…


We had a long weekend for Easter so we decided to check out Slovenia.  I can see why everybody raves about it.  It’s very clean, the people are friendly, and almost everybody speaks perfect English!

Ljubljana was our first stop — and this time  didn’t get lost or drive through a pedestrian zone!  Ljubljana is charismatic and picturesque.

The Franciscan Church was beautiful inside although we busted in on an Easter service.  Whoops! I would have enjoyed watching a little, but definitely not with the kids!

Franciscan Church of the Annunciation

I’m always a sucker for accordion street performers. He looks delighted to be there! Haha!


We stayed at the Union Hotel which was especially nice and with Preseren Square a few steps away, the location couldn’t have been better!

Benny and Clara loved the Dragons everywhere.

Next stop was the Ljubljana Castle.  We hiked to the top of the castle towering over the city. Why we were hiking when they provided a functioning funicular was beyond me.  I wasn’t prepared for it.   I was wearing flimsy ballet flats and carried Clara the entire time! It was pretty much straight up the mountain. Benny was a trooper.


Reaching the top made for some fantastic shots of the city.


We had fun wandering around the grounds and looking inside the castle.  The kids loved spying for bad guys.




After the climb back down to town we were ready for an aperitivo!


Next stop… Lake Bled! It was about a 45 minute drive from Ljubljana.


When we arrived we took the boat ride out to the island. The kids love any boat ride and the views are breathtaking!


We were greeted with this staircase upon our arrival to the island.


After the trek up, we visited the Church of the Assumption (the only place to visit on the island).  The top brought gorgeous views of the mountains, a perfect place for an appetitive, and open grassy area perfect for rough housing!



This looks a little daunting… but there is only one way down.



And as always…there was a lot of crying and a lot of whining!


So long Lake Bled. We’ll be back this summer!  There is so much more here than we had time for — including sampling the famous Bled cream cake.  I won’t rest until I’ve sampled it! We’re moving on to the ski town of Kranjska Gora.

Kranjska Gora was a charming little sleepy town in the Julian Alps.


The kids and I loved these little Easter bunnies!




The kids enjoyed digging in what was left of the snow.


We stayed in a small, family-run motel called Hotel Kotnik.  I think only one man was in charge of the motel and the restaurant! He stayed busy!!  They had these little wooden benched carved outside of their door.


And for some reason, the kids decided to put their shoes away (this is definitely a first)!


We tried this awesome dessert.  I didn’t catch the name of it, but it was sort of like a warm cream puff served with ice cream.  One between the four of us did NOT cut it.


We spent the next day skiing.  Benjamin had his first lesson.  Unfortunately, there wasn’t much snow at the resort, but the hill was perfect for Benny.


He was so excited to learn, but things went downhill fast when Derek tried to be his instructor.  I was fairly certain it could sour him on skiing forever.  He seemed to do much better with the actually instructor.

This is what I did while everyone was skiing… I was possibly the only one enjoying myself.


I think Derek managed to get a few good runs in despite the fact the snow was minimal and the hill wasn’t the most exciting.  As for Benjamin … only time will tell if he’ll ever recover from his traumatic first lesson.