We went to Bolzano for Thanksgiving. It didn’t feel like Thanksgiving, but we were happy to get out of temporary housing for a few days and lucky for me…the Christmas market opened!!!
We set our with our fancy new GPS which took us straight up and over the San Pellegrino pass (there is a much easier route). It was beautiful, but all I could focus on were plumetting temperatures, the rapidly setting sun, and roads beginning to ice over. I thought it was never going to end. I somehow thought tightly gripping the door handle and pushing my feet into the floor would stop the car from sliding off the cliff.
The drive turned out to be only half the battle. Finding the hotel park was next. The GPS took us straight into the Christmas market in the Piazza Walther! Derek had to reverse a very narrow road crawling with pedestrians. The best part…? Nobody looked at him like he was crazy!
Benny loved the hotel. They had cookies and fruit waiting for us and he especially loved climbing the ladder to peek out the window.
Bolzano is a charming city in the Dolomites and is said to have the largest and most traditional market in all of Italy. This region was a part of Austria until World War I, and according to Rick Steves, many locals would still prefer to be Austrian and speak German as their first language. The city also has a German name (Bozen) and all of the signs are printed in German and Italian.
We strolled around the streets a while. Carrying Clara gets quite painful.
We visited Bolzano’s archaeology museum to see Ötzi the Iceman. He was discovered (frozen in a glacier) by a German couple while hiking and is over 5,000 years old. It would’ve been interesting, but Clara was having an epic meltdown so we didn’t spend a whole lot of time there.
After lunch we were all feeling better and took a cable car to Oberbozen – a tiny village high in the Dolomites.
We strolled around the village for a while enjoying the views, some coffee, and garden decorations.
The kids were exhausted after the cable car and needed to rest. Derek was nice and watched them at the hotel while I enjoyed the Christmas market!
The next day we set out to find one of the castles in the area. There are many, but only one was open for the season. We did a long hike up a promenade that paralleled the river. It was quite lovely, but hard to enjoy while carrying Clara. We made some wrong turns and finally found the castle!
When we got up to the doors everything was locked. It turns out we had found the wrong castle! The kids were quite disappointed. They were so excited to go in a real castle.
After some lunch and a rest, we enjoyed the Christmas market. Everything was so festive with bands, carolers, and lots of gluwein!!!
We enjoyed a carriage ride. Benny only made it half way.
The kids loved the carousel and train!
They had a big snow hill and we thought the kids would like to sled, but it was big ice pile and everyone was falling. Derek was knocking kids down, Benny was whining, and Clara was crying out: “I fa down”! The snow hill was a bad idea.
It was a great trip! I hope we can make it back in the summer to see more castles and maybe do some hiking around the Dolomites.